Venice, Italy – Some Local Knowledge

Get the Most Out of Your Venetian Holiday With These Simple Tips

Nov 10, 2009

Venice is the world's most enchanting city. It's can also be one of the most frustrating places on earth, but it doesn't have to be

Venice is more than a city, and as such, attracts more than it’s share of crowds. It is, as Thomas Mann put it: “Half fairy-tale and half tourist-trap.”

Getting the most out of this archaic maze requires a small effort, but one that will be repaid a hundredfold. The galleries, museums and famous sights around the city are all well documented and easy to find, but as sight-seeing only makes up a relatively small part of your day, be sure to be prepared for the rest of it.

Firstly, some sound advice: get a good map. The city’s interlocking islands and network of bridges and alleys is actually easy to master once you get the hang of it, but go exploring unaided and expect to get a little lost. Not a bad thing to happen in a city as beautiful as this, just as long as you planned it.

Dining Out in Venice

Eating and drinking in Venice is a bit of a minefield. Restaurants range from the sublime to the ridiculous. Similarly, cafes and bars differ drastically in terms of both quality and price.

Guidebooks and hotel concierges are never short of recommendations, but for those who appreciate good food and would rather eat with Italians than the posse from the cruise ship, Ca' d'Oro (or Alla Vedova to locals, at Cannaregio 3912, just off Strada Nuova) and Al Nono Risorto (Santa Croce, Sotoportego de la Siora Bettina, 2338) are two if the best.

Alla Vedova is a traditional Bacaro (wine bar), the likes of which you’ll find everywhere, but one that’s worth the walk. Most are over-priced and serve uninspired food and wine.

Al Nono Risorto is a quirky “locals” place, with handwritten menus and laid-back staff serving great, rustic Venetian meals. During the summer months their courtyard must be one of the best spots in Venice to enjoy an evening meal and a bottle of Soave.

For those with a sweet tooth, Vizio Virtù (Calle del Campaniel, just off Piazza San Tomà) is as charming a chocolate shop as you’ll ever find. Aside from huge, chocolate-moulded ornaments dotted around, the shop is crammed with tasty delights and the proprietor is every bit as sweet as you’d expect.

If you fancy dining al fresco, the island of San Giorgio Maggiore is the perfect spot for a picnic. Just east of Giudecca and south of the main islands, the island is home to the stunning Church of San Giorgio Maggiore and a Benedictine Monastery, on top of which you can enjoy the best, uninterrupted view of the city. Sitting on the edge of the canal with some lunch offers a perspective on Venice afforded to very few visitors. The island is also home to the headquarters of the Cini Foundation arts centre and to the Teatro Verde open-air theatre.

Going out in Venice can be tricky, as there isn’t the usual plethora of neon signs and leaflets there to guide you to the bars and clubs. Fun can still be had, however. The bars around the Campo Santa Margherita are always hopping with local students and revellers, while Rialto (near the market) offers a more traditional type of bar. The “Ghetto”, Venice’s old Jewish quarter, is a delight to ramble around, stopping at the small, quiet and very local bars for a prosecco or a cocktail.

A single fare on the vaporetto is €6.50 – so most locals will walk. Bulk tickets can be had, but are only good value if you plan to ride it a lot. To attract tourists, they offer discounted entry to some museums with these cards, but not the best ones.

Taxis and gondolas are not cheap (a typical gondola ride lasts 30 minutes and costs €80+) unless shared among a group. Also – be sure to find a good gondola route. Ask around; the most memorable are around the Grand Canal while others will merely take you through comparatively boring residential quarters.

Short crossings of the canals can be made by traghetto – a traditional gondola that acts as a ferry. For those on a budget desperate to ride a gondola – even briefly – this experience should cost around 50 cents and is a handy way to cut across town.

The copyright of the article Venice, Italy – Some Local Knowledge in Italy Travel is owned by Colin O'Brien. Permission to republish Venice, Italy – Some Local Knowledge in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.