Two Must-See Milan Churches
The Relics of St. Ambrose and da Vinci's The Last Supper
Sant' Ambrogio is a history of architecture, dating back to the 4th century, and Santa Maria della Grazie guards one of the greatest masterpieces of western art.
After the great Duomo, Milan’s best known church is Santa Maria della Grazie. But, ironically, it is not the church itself that is so famous. It is instead the masterpiece painted on the wall of the adjoining Cenacolo VincianoLeonardo da Vinci's The Last Supper, painted in 1496 and 97, is perhaps the most widely recognized of all paintings.
Da Vinci's The Last Supper
Because it was done on a dry surface, not the wet plaster – or fresco -- base commonly used for painting on large on walls, da Vinci had more time to concentrate on the details of facial expression. The painting’s enduring power is in the way da Vinci has captured the moment of shock as Christ announced to his disciples that one of them would betray him.
Painting on a stable base, while it allowed the artist more time than the volatile fresco medium, gave the painting itself less time. It began to deteriorate almost immediately, a condition that was worsened dramatically by the destruction of much the building during World War II. It sat exposed to the weather, further damaging it, so that despite recent restoration, the painting shows the ravages of time.
Santa Maria della Grazie
Although many people barely look at the adjoining church, it is worth seeing, too. The architect Bramante updated the 15th-century Gothic church during the Renaissance, rebuilding the sanctuary and apse and adding the charming "Frog Cloister". In the second chapel on the right, a Carravaggio painting replaces the priceless Titian stolen by Napoleon's army in 1797. It was carried off to the Louvre, from which, despite Italian outcry, the French have never returned it.
Advance reservations for timed tickets are needed to see The Last Supper: tel (02) 8942 1146, or from outside Italy +39 (02) 8942 1146; operators speak English. The church is open daily 7am--noon & 3--7pm, the Cenacolo Tue–-Sun 8.15am--6.45pm. The closest Metro station is Conciliazione.
Sant' Abrogio
By far the most historic of Milan's churches, Sant' Abrogio was begun by Milan native son, St Ambrose, in the 4th century, and its carved stone portal survives from that original. Like most churches, it remained for much of its life a work in progress. A monastery was added in the 8th century, belltowers in the 9th and 12th centuries and the large portico in the 9th century. These and the continually evolving interior features have made the church a living museum.
Enter through the atrium, with its beautifully carved capitals; it is among Europe's most important examples of Romanesque architecture. Continue through the 4th-century portal and 9th-century bronze doors. Inside, under a beautiful pulpit, is the 4th-century Stilicone sarcophagus, carved in intricate deep relief. Under the gold altarpiece, inset with stones, is a crypt with the remains of St. Ambrose and the two early Milanese martyrs for whom he built the church. Go through the last chapel on right to see the brilliant mosaic dome of the original 4th-century Sacello de San Vittore. Open Mon--Sat 7am--noon 2pm--7pm, Sun 7am-1.15pm & 2.30--7.45. The Tesoro (treasury) is open daily 9.30am--noon & 2.30pm--6pm. The Metro stop is Sant'Ambrogio.
