The third largest Christian church in the world and the artistic apex of the Flamboyant Gothic, Milan's Duomo was begun by the first Duke of Milan in 1402, but the spot was a holy place long before. In a Paleochristian Baptistry on that site, St Ambrose baptised St Augustine in 387.
The Duomo’s Stonework and Bronze Doors
Begin your tour by walking around the mammoth building to see some of the more than 2000 statues in niches and atop pinnacles on the exterior. Many of these are crowned with delicately carved spires with stone curlicues.
The bronze panels covering the huge central doors were begun in the mid-1800s, but not finished until 1966. Step inside and pause for a moment to let the 52 columns of the nave and aisles draw your eyes upward to the vaulted ceiling. Turn right to the ticket kiosk and return to the little entrance beside the center door.
Paleochristian Baptistry
Descend below the piazza to enter the excavations of the circular Baptistry of S Giovani alle Fonti, where St Augustine was baptised. Remnants of mosaics and patterned marble floors, as well as stone carvings give an idea of what it looked like. Return to the nave and turn right
Bishop d'Intimiano Sarcophagus
In the first of the elaborately decorated side altars, the bishop’s sarcopagus is an outstanding example of 11th-century stone carving. The cathedral’s oldest windows -- 15th- and 16th-century stained glass – are in the first chapels on this side.
Medici Tomb
In the transept (the crossing, where two major side altars face each other), the tomb of Gian Giacamo de'Medici is by the 16th-century sculptor Leone Leoni. Continue following the outer wall, past the almost too realistic sculpture of St Bartholomew, into the semi-circular ambulatory (the aisle that curves around behind the altar)
Crypt
Beneath the high altar is the impressive tomb of San Carlo Borromeo. If the crypt is not open, you can look down onto the tomb from the ambulatory.
Ambulatory Windows
The brilliant and detailed stained glass windows depicting Biblical scenes are by the 19th century brothers Bertini, some of the finest examples of the height this art reached. Continue around to the steps leading to the high altar
Choir
Behind the high altar, the choir is lined with deeply carved wooden panels. If the choir is open, notice the misericords carved under the seats, in the forms of lions’ and angel heads.
Trivulzio Candelabra
In the north transept, opposite the Medici tomb, is what many consider the artistic highlight of the cathedral, the 12th-century candelabra. Fantastic and highly detailed creatures decorate this masterpiece of the goldsmith Nicholas of Verdun.
Cappella del Crocifisso
Although it’s reserved for prayer, you can look quietly into the chapel of the crucifix carried by St Carlo Borromeo in a 1576 procession to pray for an end to the plague. The stained glass there is 16th-century. Cross the transcept, leaving the church and turn left.
La Salita (Roof)
An elevator and a stairway lead to the rooftop, one of Milan's highlights. You can inspect the delicate spires and statues eye-to-eye, get a dizzying perspective of the streets below and on a clear day see the Alps, which look startlingly close.
The Duomo is open daily from 7am to 6:45 pm.
