The Villa Jovis on the Isle of Capri
A Roman Palace Citadel Offers a Geotouring Destination
Mar 8, 2009
The most striking features of the so-called Villa Jovis (pronounced "yovis") are its impregnable location and 360-degree view. A high level of intactness has enabled archaeologists to identify the various parts of the villa and their functions with precision. Associated structures included an observatory and, set apart, a lighthouse (faro). Tiberius spent the final eleven years of his life in semi-seclusion here.
Tiberius: Misunderstood Ruler?
Tiberius was perhaps the last of the great Republican emperors, but ancient historians have handed down conflicting portraits of him. Reports of his humility, magnanimity and uprightness contradict tales of cruelty and licentiousness. A nearby cliff, for example, has been dubbed the Salto di Tiberio, or Tiberius' Leap, based on an unfounded claim that he had those who offended him thrown into the sea.
Although emperor status was thrust upon him late in life and he did not welcome it, the good of the Republic was always his first concern. He survived an overthrow attempt by a trusted lieutenant and his safety – and that of the Republic – was always at risk. As a result, he gained a lasting reputation for melancholia, humorlessness, and paranoia.
The Villa Jovis Site Afforded Maximum Protection
One thing seems certain: the Capri palace was impregnable. To the east, the site commands a view of both the Sorrento strait and Capri's main harbor. Visitors could be observed climbing the long access road between the villa's gardens and orchards on the sloping plateau to the west. To the south, the grounds are defended by precipices that drop into the sea, 1,000 feet below.
Its four massive cisterns assured adequate water in case of siege. From his observatory he studied the stars and constantly checked for other omens of danger, and the lighthouse was used to communicate with its counterpart on the mainland in case of attack.
Imperial Palaces at Capri
The largest of Capri's three major imperial villas and the only remaining ruin, the Villa Jovis hints at the grandeur of these structures. It occupies 1.7 acres and had three levels of porticos, a cliff-top loggia, baths, an office, and a semicircular hall that faced east. Details and the plan can be found in Amedeo Maiuri, Capri: Its History and Its Monuments, #93 in the government library series "Guide-Books to the Museums and Monuments of Italy." Another excellent source is Arvid Andren's Capri from the Stone Age to the Tourist Age (Goteborg, 1980).
The villas at Capri featured the full complement of murals, mosaic or marble floors, statuary, heated floors and walls, solid marble columns, and carved architectural elements. The Villa Jovis has yielded marble floor slabs, a marble altar decorated with a relief of a ram's garlanded head, other high quality relief panels, and two marble well-heads embellished with grape tendrils and acanthus. These items have ended up in churches, museums, and private collections. A geometric marble floor, for instance, surrounds the high altar in Capri's Church of Santo Stefano.
To Get There
The Villa Jovis is located 1.5 miles uphill from Capri's clock-tower square. Two routes depart from the square: the Via Le Botteghe, directly across from the clock tower, or Via Sopramonte, an archway in the long building that flanks the left side of the square. Both paths lead to "La Croce" (crossroads), a tiny intersection with a store and an espresso bar. The Via Tiberio leaves this crossing at the corner of the store and leads uphill.
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