The very special relationship Rome has with its resident cat population is clear as soon as you arrive in the capital and look at the countless postcards of cats sitting on stumps of ancient columns or having a nap at the foot of an emperor's statue. Protected by the city council as "biocultural heritage", Roman cats enjoy an almost sacred status, dating back to the cult of Bast, the Egyptian goddess of pleasure, who had a human body and a cat's head. The most famous example of the city's love for cats is the Roman Cat Sanctuary, located by the archaeological site of the Torre Argentina, where Caesar was murdered more than 2,000 years ago.
The idea came from Silvia Viviani, a former opera singer, who started the sanctuary back in 1994, with partner Lia and a few other volunteers. The initial conditions were primitive, with the cat ladies caring for more than 90 cats in a cave-like area below street level, in many places too low to stand up straight and lacking in running water and electricity.
Much needed help came in the shape of Molga Salvalaggio, an English woman who put them in contact with AISPA (Anglo-Italian Society for the Protection of Animals), which was the first organisation to provide medicines and vaccines as well as moral support. Through fund-raising efforts and donations from visiting tourists, the sanctuary evolved into a fully professional operation, taking care of the cats and providing medical assistance.
The difficult beginnings are now well in the past. Today, the Cat Sanctuary is a friendly and welcoming shelter for more than 250 four-legged residents. It is open to tourists and volunteers alike and the gattare - Italian for "cat ladies" - are now so organised that they run an adoption website and an online shop.
The typical workday of these cat lovers begins at 11 am, with cleaning and disinfecting cages. This is by far the most important job considering the ease with which diseases spread. After food distribution, the afternoon is dedicated to medical treatments. While carrying out their daily duties, the volunteers must constantly look around for sick or newly abandoned animals who must be caught, treated, vaccinated and neutered.
Animal lovers have different ways to help, from adoption (real or virtual), to donations by mail or PayPal. Also, volunteers are always needed, not only to take care of the cats but also to help with clerical work or show around the many tourists who visit the site.
The Cat Sanctuary is in Largo di Torre Argentina (corner of via Florida and via Arenula). It is open every day from noon to 6pm. For further information, visit their website.