Naples in Italy's Campania Region
An Experience Not To Be Missed In The Shortest Tour Of The Region
Sep 10, 2008
A Short Morning Walk in Naples
Visitors who can only spare half a day will still be rewarded, using the morning before they travel by ferry to Capri for the Blue Grotto or Ischia and its gardens perhaps. The passion and life which fills this city will create real memories. Visitors should start in the Piazza Garibaldi, arguably the heart of the city. This maelstrom of traffic, trams, builders and Street traders selling fake everything is simply full of life. Maybe just a little too full. But a short walk north-west along the Via Giovanni a Carbonara will bring you to a quieter area where every other building seems to be a Renaissance palace or a church.
Behind the Castel Capuano,a much altered 12th century castle which marked the road through the city walls which led to Capua, is Via dei Tribunali. This and the parallel Via San Biagio dei Librai follow the roman streets decumanus maximus and decumanus inferiore. Visitors are walking were Romans trod.
The Faded Glory That Is Via dei Tribunali
Walking up the hill of the Via dei Tribunali visitors can see the glory which was once the centre of Naples. Noble houses, wonderful stonework, magnificent gates leading into once fine courtyards. Now rundown and providing cheap housing to the city's poor. The highlight of the walk is on the left, the magnificently named Cappella delPio Monte della Misericordia.. The entrance looks as if it may not be worth the effort, but once inside, where you will almost always be alone, the reward is stupendous. The reason for the visit is a magnificent Caravaggio hanging over the altar "The Seven Works of Mercy". The seven acts of mercy were based on characters Caravaggio saw during his time in the city. Other wonderful works by Luca Giordano, Santafede, Caracciolo,Azzolino and Forli only serve to support the master's work. The marble octagonal chapel dates from 1660 and was designed by Francesco Antonio Picchiatti. The religious organisation responsible for the building of Pio Monte della Misericordia is still active today. Its original aims including the liberation of Christian slaves captured by the Turks in their raids on southern Italy. Not much call for that particular charitable work at the present time.
The Duomo and San Gennaro
Just around the corner of the Via dei Tribunali is the Duomo. A 13th century building behind a late 19th century facade. It is dedicated to the patron saint of Naples San Gennaro, whose blood still liquefies on the first Sunday in May and then on September 19 and December the 16th. The city will suffer bad luck if his blood fails to liquefy, this may be as significant as the loss of an important football match.
Photographers will want to turn their back on the Duomo and photograph the far more interesting, for a photographer, the Girolamini. The Girolamini is both a church and monastery. The original building was demolished and rebuilt as late as 1592. The church is in the style of the Florentine Renaissance: a Latin cross with three naves and lateral chapels.
Then find a coffee house, order a real Italian coffee and a pastry and reflect on what you have seen, a morning well spent.
