Rome, Florence, Milan, Venice – the great cities of art - certainly provide a feast for the senses of even the most discerning tourist. But if you get off the beaten track that leads to the big and better known cities in Italy and take the 90 minute train journey from Florence, you will come across the fascinating medieval town of Lucca encased within its famous walls.
Originally founded by the Etruscans and then colonised by the Romans in the 2nd century BCE, the city of Lucca became a self-governing entity during the 12th century and remained an independent republic for around 500 years. Its prosperity was founded on the lucrative silk trade – and to protect themselves from covetous rivals like Pisa (historictravel.suite101.com/article.cfm/italy_pisa) and Florence (italy-travel.suite101.com/article.cfm/things_to_do_in_florence), the citizens of Lucca (called the Lucchesi), fortified their city by constructing a powerful rampart around it. Fortunately, these walls were never tested in battle – and today remain among the best preserved in Italy. The fortifications are a monument to their architects who gave, them, perhaps, a touch more elegance than was strictly necessary.
The path on top of the ramparts has now been planted on either side with shade trees making a splendid green boulevard that extends for about four kilometres encircling the city. Within these walls are tidy and well preserved Romanesque churches, easily accessible along narrow medieval streets where cars are tolerated but not welcomed. You can peacefully meander your way along these and imbibe the misty romance of the city. There is an old Roman amphitheatre - and quaint churches like Santa Maria Forisportam which is situated at what used to be the entrance to the forum. The ancient forum – the midpoint of the old Roman town where its two main streets crossed - is today occupied by the impressive church of San Michele, opposite which is the Casa de Puccini (House of Giacomo Puccini), the modest abode where the composer of such well known operas as Madame Butterfly and Tosca was born. You may fortunate while in Lucca to have the opportunity of attending a music recital in the church of San Giovanni, where regular performances of Puccini’s music are held of an evening. Listening to a concert by a beautiful young soprano in the hallowed precincts of the softly lit church can be a moving experience.
And the Duomo – the cathedral dedicated to San Martino, the Roman officer who is usually depicted in paintings and sculptures giving his cloak to a poor, cold beggar – is awe-inspiring. Within its intricately carved exterior are some glorious examples of medieval Italian art. The most striking image is the tomb of Ilaria del Caretto, the marble figure of the lady reposing serene in death with her little dog lying faithfully at her feet.
And while in Lucca, one shouldn’t forget to stop by Taddeus’ traditional pasticcheria and buy some traditional Bucellato (sweet anise bread). Remember too to stop awhile at one of the small roadside cafes and enjoy a cone of gelato or a glass of wine.
If you must see the cities that everybody who goes to Italy talks about, then certainly book your tours of Rome and Florence and Milan and Venice. But if you want to experience some medieval charm and romantic sweetness, take the path less trodden to places like Lucca.
More information: http://www.welcometuscany.it/tuscany/lucca/lucca.htm
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |