Il Palio, Siena, Italy's Annual Horse Race

Tradition, Celebration, Excitement for Travel in Tuscany

Sep 6, 2009

The Palio of Italy lasts only about 90 seconds, but like all great horse races it is surrounded with tradition, excitement, and serious business for Siena's citizens.

Set in beautiful Tuscany, Il Palio is Italy's great traditional horse race, dating back to medieval times. It is held in the Piazza del Campo in the city of Siena every year on July 2 and August 16.

This is not a race for the faint of heart. The riders are professional jockeys, mounted simply bareback on well-chosen horses. Horses and riders take off at breakneck speed for two laps around a prepared dirt track that circles the piazza.

Il Palio is more than just a day at the races. It is the capstone of a great Tuscan festival, accompanied by colorful pre-race and post-race parades, ceremonies, celebrations and other festivities. And there are the tratta, the preliminary festivities in which the horses are selected.

The horses are the revered competitors of Il Palio. They do not come from thoroughbred or other purebreed racing stables, though. Palio horses are crossbred, mixed breed horses, selected on an indvidual assessment of stamina, atleticism (needed for full-tilt gallop around the curves of the Piazza del Campo's track), and speed.

These horses must also be able to tolerate the close press and noise of the crowd, the waving of banners, and the proximity of the other horses. This requires a horse with all the necessary physical attributes combined with a good mind and great self-confidence. The horses must pass a veterinary inspection.

Siena is divided into 17 contrade, similar to burroughs or precincts. The citizens of Siena are residents with allegiance to their contrada first and Siena second. Each contrada has its own stake in Il Palio. It is not just a horse race. This event represents centuries of politics, pride, honor, ceremony, and skill, all interwoven with the threads of tradition and history. In short, it is a competition of the highest order.

It is also exciting fun for the visitors who flock to Siena in July and August every year to enjoy the festival's many events and the wonderful food and wine of sunny Tuscany, all culminating in the breathtaking Il Palio itself.

Ten contrade of the seventeen are selected to compete in each race. Each contrada is assigned a horse. The selected jockey will wear the contrada's colors in the race.

The Race in Piazza del Campo

Over the years, improvements to the track have been instituted. A dirt bedded "tufo" track is laid down and the sides of the course are padded with mattresses, to mitigate the impact of falls. Still, as in any race, there is a significant probability that a fall could result in serious injury and even death.

The horses run the race flat out through close crowds of spectators packed into the Piazza del Campo. The piazza is closed prior to the race and stays closed until the race is completed. Once in, competitors and spectators are there for the duration.

Falls and injuries are expected and add to the excitement. If a rider hits the ground there is nowhere for the horses behind him to go but over him. Most do finish the race, and unless injured, a horse that has lost its rider is still in the race and can run to win.

Il Palio is a hugely popular draw for tourists. Tickets are sold a year in advance. Travel agents arrange packages that include accommodations and tickets for viewing the race. Private residences with a view of the Piazza rent out space for watching the race. The advantages of their viewing locations is the relative comfort away from the crowd and not being locked into the Piazza. There are also bleachers with a good view set up around the track; they are inside the Piazza and locked in during the race.

At the start of the race, the 10 chosen horses and riders line up at a rope drawn across the track to designate the starting point. Sometimes there are false starts which heighten the crowd's anticipation. At the starting signal, the horses burst forward for their laps of the Piazza, first across the finish line being the prize winner, the ultimate pride of the Palio.

Preparation for Il Palio begins long before the race is run. Great planning goes into selection of the horses and jockeys, running the trials leading up to the race, and staging the many banquets and celebrations.

For centuries the race has been a prized and revered tradition. It is a matter of status and value beyond measure to win Il Palio. That is the purse of the race; the actual monetary winnings are small and symbolic. This race is not about winning money.it is about courage, pride, stamina, and dedication to one's contrada, very much like an Olympic event.

Not to be overlooked in planning to visit Siena for Il Palio are Tuscany's many other attractions. Siena itself is an old and lovely city. It is located in Tuscan wine country, which offers opportunities for day trips, such as the town of Chianti 18 km away. Biking tours are available. Glorious Florence is not far due north. Medieval fairs are prominent in Tuscany throughout the summer.

The copyright of the article Il Palio, Siena, Italy's Annual Horse Race in Italy Travel is owned by Linda Ashar. Permission to republish Il Palio, Siena, Italy's Annual Horse Race in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.