Of course you’ll want to begin with Milan’s magnificent Gothic cathedral, the Duomo, but after touring it and climbing to its roof for a view of the city, don’t miss these four nearby churches. Like most Italian churches, each has changed since it was first built, often reflecting later styles and architects.
The oldest, San Sepulcro, sits in the midst of the forum of Roman Milan (known then as Mediolanum). Dedicated to the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem, it was renovated during the Counter Reformation, when the all-powerful Cardinal Carlo Borromeo ruled the city. Remodelled once more in the late 1800s, the nave is quite different from the original Romanesque church. But its long crypt has seen very little change since it was built, in 1030. Look for the sarcophagus in the apse, with stone carvings from Cardinal Borromeo’s day, in the 1500s. In Piazza San Sepulcro, the church is open: Mon--Fri noon—2:30 pm.
Cardinal Borremeo had a hand in every church (and a great deal more) in mid-1500s Milan, including the Jesuit church of San Fedele. The severe Jesuit style is tempered by baroque flourishes, a happy combination that complements each. Its architect, Pellegrino Tibaldi impressed the cardinal with this early work, which embodied the thinking of the Counter Reformation and soon became a favorite of Cardinal Borremeo. Woodcarving (be sure to see the confessionals) and paintings in the church are Baroque, with some late Renaissance paintings as well. The carved choir stalls were brought here from nearby Santa Maria della la Scala, which was torn down to build the opera house. In Piazza San Fedele, it is open daily 7:30 am—2:30 pm & 4 pm—7 pm.
Five years later, Cardinal Borromeo ordered the construction of a church in thanksgiving for Milan's deliverance from the plague, and again turned to Tibaldi to design it. The interior of the huge dome is painted, and altars surround the round interior. Walk across Piazza del Duomo to Via Torinoto find the church, open Mon--Sat 8 am--noon & 3 pm—5 pm, Sun 9:30 am—12:30 pm & 3:30 pm—7 pm.
Walk around to the back of this church before entering, and you’ll be surprised at its length. Where did Bramante find the space for such a long sanctuary, you may wonder. Walk closer, and you’ll see – it’s all an illusion. But such a skillful one that you will need to see it from the side to believe how shallow it really is. In less than three feet, he has created the grand optical illusion of a sanctuary nearly the length of the church itself. To the left of the nave is the Cappella della Pieta, with early Medieval frescoes. Also on Via Torino, the church is open Mon--Sat 8:30—11:30 am & 3:30—5:30cpm, Sun 9:30—10:30 am & 4:30—5:30pm.