Day Five of the Tour du Mont Blanc

Summer Hike from Italy into Switzerland

Aug 9, 2009 Lyda Phillips

The trek from Courmayeur to La Fouly over the mountains from Italy into Switzerland can take two days, or one if you take a bus to Arnuva.

After Day Four in Courmayeur, the Tour du Mont Blanc runs 16 km (10 miles) up along a ridge with a glorious view of the south face of Mont Blanc to the newest shelter on the trail, Rifugio Bonatti. The elevation gain is brutal: nearly 1600 m (5280 feet), according to Kev Reynolds’ Tour of Mont Blanc (Cicerone).

However, many TMB trekkers with less time or less energy cut this day out entirely and take a bus from Courmayeur to the little settlement of Arnuva and start the hike into Switzerland from Rifugio Elena on day five rather than day six.

Italy to Switzerland over the Grand Col Ferret

The Tour du Mont Blanc route from Courmayeur leads up to the crest of the Mont de la Saxe, with views of the entire south face of the Mont Blanc, including the Grandes Jorasses, a 4200 m (13860-foot) peak that dominates the range.

From Rifugio Bonatti, the trail leads steeply downhill to the road from Courmayeur that leads through La Vachey and onto Arnuva.

At Arnuva the paved road ends and becomes a jeep trail that leads up to Rifugio Elena, a popular refuge with views of Mont Dolent and the Aiguille de Triolet, as well as the Glacier de Pre de Bar. Elena is a good spot to stop, have a cup of coffee, and prepare for the ascent to the Grand Col Ferret and Switzerland.

From Elena the TMB climbs 1567-feet in 2 km (1.25 miles) first in zigzags and then more sharply to the top of the 8400-foot col. In good weather, from the top you can see all the way back along the Val Ferret and the Val Veni to the Col de la Seigne on the border of France and Italy.

About a third of the way down, a restored dairy barn has been turned into a buvet where hikers can stop for refreshments after the climb up and then down from Rifugio Elena.

Hiking Down into Switzerland

From the border on the top of Grand Col Ferret, the TMB descend steadily into a quiet Swiss valley and winds through tiny hamlets, past pastures with tan-colored cows wearing big cow bells that ring throughout the hike. Accommodations are available in several of these villages, but most hikers choose to walk on to La Fouly.

In La Fouly, the two most popular hotels are the Hotel des Glaciers, which has both private and dormitory rooms as well as a charming restaurant and outdoor café, or the Hotel Edelweiss a step or two farther along the main street.

The café at Hotel des Glaciers is a good place to rest and plan for Day Six and the trek from La Fouly to Champex, a spot so charming it’s worth spending an extra night.

The copyright of the article Day Five of the Tour du Mont Blanc in S Europe Travel is owned by Lyda Phillips. Permission to republish Day Five of the Tour du Mont Blanc in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.
Rifugio Elena, Lyda Phillips
Rifugio Elena
Glacier de Pre de Bar, Lyda Phillips
Glacier de Pre de Bar
Hotel des Glaciers, La Fouly, Lyda Phillips
Hotel des Glaciers, La Fouly
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